Joinery that create a lot of foam is almost certain to be weak. Wood glue strength comparison showdown comparing Titebond Original, Titebond All Purpose, Titebond II, Titebond III and Gorilla glue. Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent-free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. Norm did it so that's the way to do it, right? From what I've read, adding moisture to a poly glue joint is only necessary with really dry wood such as in desert climates then not very much. I always thought those were special formulations for industrial uses.I think wetting the joint is a mistake many make with polyurethane glues. You basically glue up your product and stick it in a mircowave oven type device (kinda sorta) and in 10 seconds of exposure, the glue has cured and is ready to go! Pretty cool, eh? I had no idea Gorilla WOOD glue could be cured like this. There are glues formulated to instantly cure when exposed to certain frequencies.
It is just a byproduct of too much water and poly glues in general.
Further, the foaming does not expand the isn't strong enough to do that. Set time of 60 minutes and cure time of 24 hours. Adhesive cleans up with water and is unaffected by finishes. The glue provides a strong initial tack and sands easily without softening. I know the bottle says to do this but trust me and just skip that step. A long open-assembly time and a low application temperature. Don't do it.the poly gets plenty from the wood and air around it. Excessive foaming is likely a result of, IMO, incorrectly ADDING extra water to the pieces being joined.
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